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Search Results for: kimpton hotels

Pazzo Ristorante: Another great Kimpton restaurant

By Mara

Kimpton Pazzo Ristorante in Portland, Oregon

It’s a simple fact that I’ve never had a bad meal at a restaurant that’s housed in a Kimpton Hotel. I’ve also never had two meals that even remotely resembled each other. That’s because Kimpton restaurants are idiosyncratic, chef-run affairs serving local ingredients cooked in a wide range of styles. They also tend to be both stylish and low-key, making them a great place to bring the kids for a nice meal out that everyone can enjoy. My latest proof that this is true was the dinner I enjoyed at Pazzo Ristorante. Located in the Kimpton Vintage Plaza Hotel in Portland, Oregon, Pazzo offers beautiful food in a family-friendly atmosphere.

Fantastic chewy bread at the Kimpton Pazzo Ristorante in Portland, Oregon

Please click on photos for full-size versions

I’m a believer that you can tell a lot about a restaurant by tasting its bread, which at Pazzo is baked at the Pazzoria Bakery next door. Chewy, dense, and served with fruity olive oil, I had to restrain myself from eating so much that I didn’t have room for the rest of my meal.

Northwest oysters at the Kimpton Pazzo Ristorante are juicy and delicious

The menu at Pazzo is Italian (the chef trained under Mario Batali) with a focus on local ingredients and pasta. I decided to sample the best of both worlds, starting with plump Northwest oysters.

A lovely take on the Caesar salad at the Kimpton Pazzo Ristorante

Other first course options include a lovely list of salads, like this gorgeous take on the classic Caesar – called the Natalino, it has anchovy dressing and a generous portion of reggiano parmesan.

This gnocchi at the Kimpton Pazzo Ristorante was to die for

My second course was more traditionally Italian – pillowy gnocchi with a salty lamb ragu.

Love that the ravioli at the Kimpton Pazzo Ristorante comes topped with local Oregon hazelnuts

I was quite pleased with my choice, even if I did keep eyeing my friend’s butternut ravioli topped with truffle butter and local hazelnuts.

And if you prefer to go more paleo than pasta, Pazzo has you covered with everything from a grilled ribeye to a veal chop, all served with seasonal heirloom vegetables.

Complex flavors in the semifreddo at the Kimpton Pazzo Ristorante

I didn’t think I’d have room for dessert (What? Stop laughing!) but somehow found myself ordering the semifreddo – pistachio gelato layered between dense chocolate cake. The sauce you see in the picture is fig syrup, which added yet another complex flavor that was absolutely delicious with the pistachios.

The service at Pazzo was warm and unpretentious, and although we didn’t have any children in attendance at our meal, I feel confident that they would be welcome here. I’d call the atmosphere casually elegant, with comfy chairs, dark woodwork, and an open, red brick kitchen at the back.

Fun moose heads in the Kimpton Hotel Vintage Plaza lobby

After you’re finished eating, take the kids and wander through the Vintage Plaza lobby (or “living room” as they tend to be called in Kimpton hotels). With its room-by-room tribute to local vineyards, the hotel is themed more for grownups (nearby Hotel Monaco or RiverPlace Hotel are the Kimpton properties that really cater to families in Portland). But children will enjoy checking out the lobby’s wall of moose heads and high ceiling.

Pazzo serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, as well as brunch on the weekends. And I didn’t get to sample the pastries, coffee, or sandwiches at Pazzoria next door, but after my dinner at Pazzo, I feel confident that this would make a great place for breakfast, lunch, or a snack if you’re exploring downtown Portland. In fact, I’m quite comfortable making this blanket recommendation: Enjoy family meals with confidence in any Kimpton restaurant. If I were in a city with a Kimpton hotel and was casting about for a place to eat, these restaurants would be my go-to.

Like this review? Check out what I’ve got to say about other Kimpton restaurants:

  • Fabulous family dining at Firefly Restaurant
  • Hotel Monaco Baltimore dining
  • Philadelphia family dining at the Red Owl Tavern

Pazzo Ristorante treated my blogging friends and me to this fabulous meal (thank you!) but my opinions are my own. You can always count on me to tell you when I’ve received something for free.

 

Filed Under: Dreaming of, Eating, Family travel tips, Oregon, Portland

Philadelphia family dining at the Red Owl Tavern

By Mara

Apple cider donuts at the Red Owl Tavern are a real treat

Here’s the thing about Kimpton Hotels: They may serve an international clientele, but their restaurants think local. As in local purveyors and local hangouts, designed to please both hotel guests and neighborhood regulars with excellent and attentive service. Offering Philadelphia family dining that’s great for tourists and locals alike, the newly opened Red Owl Tavern in the Hotel Monaco is no exception.

We ate at the Red Owl Tavern twice. On Friday evening we had tickets for a concert that started at 7 and needed to get some food in us fast, so after a visit to the wine hour in the hotel lobby, we into the restaurant to see what we could find. We were seated immediately and when we told our waiter that we were on a schedule, he did everything he could to make sure we stuck to it (without our feeling rushed).

Mostly we just wanted a snack, although I also couldn’t resist the beautiful list of handmade cocktails and had to sample a Madam Juniper, which was a gorgeous mix of vodka, juniper syrup, port and maybe a bit of fairy dust, I don’t know. It tasted both deeply herbal and fresh and was the perfect thing on a cold December night.

Red Owl prides itself on its house-made charcuterie and so Matt and I decided to sample a variety. The generous meat, cheese and veg board held many tempting treats, perhaps most surprisingly the addictive pickled green beans.

 

Red Owl Tavern charcuterie

Please click on photos for full-size versions

And the sausage of the day was served on a bed of white beans and toast with a spicy jam that pulled everything together beautifully.

House-made sausage is served on a bed of beans and toast at the Red Owl Tavern in Philadelphia

Delicious meat and pickle aside, it is the humble potato that shines at Red Owl. A dish of the smashed fingerling potatoes that I imagine was probably mashed with nothing but the best selling potato masher available to the chefs, topped with cheddar, was eaten far too quickly to be photographed and was proclaimed the platonic spuds dish. And the seasoned fries that accompanied Teddy’s cheeseburger were also crispy perfection.

Seasoned fries are super delicious at the Red Owl Tavern

I definitely would like to return for a full dinner, but have to say that grazing from the appetizers was a very satisfying and economical way to feed all four of us and also to get quickly out the door to our destination for the evening.

A build-your-own Bellini bar is a feature of brunch at the Red Owl Tavern.

Saturday morning was more leisurely. We headed down to the light-filled space for brunch. The restaurant is stylish but comfortable; I loved the huge windows and exposed brick, to say nothing of the views of Independence Hall. And although I didn’t sample one, the juices for the bottomless build-your-own Bellini bar looked positively lip smacking.

As we arrived Teddy was mourning the untwisting of the balloon Rudolph that he had been given the prior evening. Happily, our waitress Cesilie knew a thing or two about both the Christmas spirit and balloon animals and was able to perform surgery that kept Teddy’s reindeer intact and a smile on his face.

Teddy loves a good smoothie

He was also kept happy by his order of a mixed berry smoothie (Tommy ordered the mango ginger, which was also delicious and not too sweet) and a bowl of fruit in which he requested that there be “lots and lots of raspberries because I love them.”

A gorgeous dish of fruit came just as Teddy ordered it at the Red Owl Tavern

Matt and the boys had sampled the apple cider donuts the previous evening at the hotel wine hour, so I knew that I was in for a treat when I asked to have on instead of toast with my breakfast. My request was rewarded with a plate full of them and I must tell you: Whatever else you order, do not pass these babies up. They are everything that donuts of this ilk should be – crispy outside, tender inside, spicy and sweet. I could easily have devoured three or four.

Apple cider donuts at the Red Owl Tavern are a real treat

But then I wouldn’t have had room for eggs, potatoes and bacon, all served on the charming Red Owl china.

Love the red owls on the china!

The only disappointing aspect of breakfast, I’m sad to report, was that the bacon was not really up to snuff. As self-appointed bacon inspector of every restaurant I visit, I felt that it didn’t have the kind of flavor I’d expect from a restaurant with great homemade cured meats.

Bacon aside, if you’re planning a stay at the Hotel Monaco in Philadelphia, I would definitely recommend at the very least enjoying breakfast or brunch at the Red Owl Tavern. And even if you aren’t, I’d suggest this as a great place to stop for a bite to eat when visiting Independence National Historical Park or the National Constitution Center or even Franklin Square, as it’s convenient to all three and serves food continuously throughout the day. At the very least you owe it to yourself to stop by and pick up a few of those donuts. You’ll leave happy and maybe even inspired by the quote at the bottom of your receipt.

Words of wisdom at the bottom of the receipt

I’d also like to point out that I’ve never been anything but delighted by the food, service, or family-friendly touches at a restaurant in a Kimpton Hotel, so if you’re visiting a new city and looking for a place to eat out with kids, they make a good bet.

Want to see some more mouthwatering photos? I’ve shared some on my Facebook page. And be sure to check out other yummy posts at Wanderfood Wednesday.

Although the Hotel Monaco was kind enough to host me and my family for a night’s stay, they did not pay for our food. You can always count on me to let you know when I’ve gotten something for free and to share my honest opinions.

Filed Under: MidAtlantic adventures, Old City Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Wanderfood Wednesday, We've been here

Philadelphia family travel: Luxury and fun at the Hotel Monaco

By Mara

Happy kids Hotel Monaco Philadelphia Please click on photos to see full-size versions

I’ve made no secret that I’m a huge fan of Kimpton Hotels (not least of all because they sponsored my Passports with Purpose prize in 2012). And the Hotel Monaco in Philadelphia is no exception. In fact, I knew we were in for a treat as soon as we walked into the newly opened hotel, which being just steps from Independence Hall is a great spot for Philadelphia family travel. The marble entryway boasts what may be my favorite chandelier ever:
Love this boat shaped chandelier at the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

The staff refers to the lobby as the “living room” and that’s just how it feels – like the luxurious quarters of your favorite chic, rich aunt. The whole room was just simply beautiful and they had some of the most amazing chandeliers for your living room and I’m so tempted to buy some similar ones for our house because they just had that ability to brighten up your room. I truly felt like I was at home here.

Gorgeous decorative details in the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia lobby

The staff at the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia calls this the The Hotel Monaco Philadelphia is located in the historic Lafayette building, which was constructed in 1907 as an homage to the French Revolutionary War hero. Although the décor is modern and fun, there are definite nods to the heritage of the building and the area that surrounds it.

The details at the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia reflect the history in and around it.

It’s also a great place to play “I Spy” as the boys discovered to their delight.

Playing

Upstairs, we all shared a Parkview Queen/Queen room on the eighth floor and were perfectly comfortable. The room itself is generously sized, with room to spread out, play, and relax.

Relaxing in our room at the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

Playing in our room at the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

And you definitely want to spring for one of the rooms with a view – because this is what you’ll see right outside your window:

Independence Hall is steps away from the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

You can even see City Hall from the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, and William Penn – that’s hard to beat!

If you’ve got a larger family or want more space, the hotel also offers twelve connecting rooms (one king bed, and two queens) as well as a Majestic Suite with a king bed, two queens, and a pullout couch in the living room.

Perhaps the most special aspect of a stay at the Hotel Monaco is that the staff is committed to providing what they call “Kimpton moments” for your kids. I was impressed with how hard they all worked to do this. From the doormen who chatted up the boys to the front-desk staff who fetched them apple juice and soda during the evening wine hour in the lobby to the toys and kid-sized bathrobes that were placed in our room to the “cookie currency” that entitled them to a delivery of cookies and milk, they definitely felt special and said as much repeatedly.

Free cookies are one of the perks for kids at the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

Also awesome for kids: The hot chocolate bar that’s set up in the morning includes both mini marshmallows and whipped cream.

And grownups are also well taken care of with free coffee in the morning.

Free coffee at the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

We also enjoyed wine and hot toddies and amazingly delicious cider donuts during the evening wine hour, gloriously comfortable beds, full-sized delicious toiletries from Etro, and our own set of cozy robes. I also appreciated the general atmosphere – the hotel is elegant, but fun; the service attentive, but friendly and not overly formal. I felt very welcome hanging out in the public spaces with my children.

We loved being in Philadelphia just before Christmas, but much of what makes the Hotel Monaco special can be found there year round. Its location in Independence National Historical Park means you can walk to many of the historical sites Philly is famous for. I think it would make a great spot for a January post-holiday getaway, especially if you take advantage of the winter Family Fun Package, which runs through January 27, 2013, and includes tickets to see Cinderella at the Arden Theatre. Become a member of the Kimpton loyalty program (it’s free) and enjoy additional perks like free WiFi.

Whether or not you book a family package, make sure to let the hotel know if you’re arriving with kids in tow, because the staff there will go out of their way to make sure every family member is kept happy. The concierge is also prepared to offer suggestions for family-friendly activities in Philadelphia if you need help planning your visit.

And don’t miss the story of our wonderful meals at the adjoining Red Owl Tavern, involving the repair of balloon animals and really delicious smoothies.

Want to see more photos of the hotel? Trust me, you do: It’s gorgeous. I’ve shared some on my Facebook page.

The Hotel Monaco Philadelphia offered me and my family one complimentary night’s stay. You can always count on me to share when I’ve received something for free – and also to share my honest opinion about it.

Filed Under: Family travel tips, MidAtlantic adventures, Old City Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Sleeping, We've been here

Holiday fun and a great big thank you

By Mara

Christmas tree in Love Park, Philadelphia

Christmas tree in Love Park, Philadelphia Today is full of all kinds of holiday fun for me – first I’m meeting my friend Keryn from Walkingon Travels and her two little ones at Longwood Gardens and then it’s off for a Philadelphia holiday getaway with my family tonight. What kinds of holiday plans do you have this weekend?

If you’re in the Philadelphia area, I’ve got a few suggestions for holiday doings:

  • Stars and joy at Longwood Gardens during the 2012 holiday season
  • MidAtlantic fun: Christmas at the Brandywine River Museum
  • Peeps Fest!
  • There’s also the article I wrote last year for last year’s USA Today Guide to Philadelphia. A Day with du Ponts offers tips about visiting a number of different museums in the Brandywine Valley at the holidays.

And no matter where you’re headed this holiday season, you might find the following posts useful:

  • Family travel tips: Planning holiday fun
  • Skiing on a holiday weekend
  • Road tripping with kids this holiday season? Some suggestions

Finally, I’d like to say a big thank you to the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia and to Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants, both for hosting us this Friday night and for donating the prize I hosted for the Passports with Purpose fundraiser. I’m happy to report that we successfully raised over $100,000 to build five wells in Haiti with Water.org. Thanks to all of you who donated! We couldn’t have done it without you.

Hope you have a wonderful weekend, full of the holiday spirit.

Filed Under: Easy outings from Philadelphia, Family travel tips, Giving back, MidAtlantic adventures, Passports with purpose

Let’s build some wells in Haiti with Water.org and Passports with Purpose

By Mara

Kids in Haiti carrying water - courtesy Water.org

Travel bloggers have been known – on occasion – to complain about how busy they are. Between the demands of writing and editing photos and publishing and sharing – to say nothing of actually traveling – it certainly can and does take a lot of time to run a successful travel blog.

But this week every time I start to tally up the items on my to-do list or feel like I need a 30-hour day to get everything accomplished, I ask myself a question: What if I had to spend most of my waking time each day collecting and carrying water to drink, cook, and clean with? Because that’s just what many people – mostly women and children – must do. In fact, every day around the world 200 million work hours are spent collecting water, much of it contaminated. 

A child carries water in Haiti - courtesy Water.org

One of the most water-poor nations in the Western hemisphere is Haiti. The situation there, already bad after the 2010 earthquake, has deteriorated in the wake of Hurricane Sandy earlier this fall. According to Water.org, 4 million people there do not have access to safe water (that’s half the population) and 1 in 5 people don’t have sanitation.

But there is hope. Organizations like Water.org are working to help the people of Haiti rebuild and get permanent access to safe drinking water. Which is where we come in. In 2012 the travel bloggers’ fundraiser Passports with Purpose is raising $100,000 to build five wells in Haiti. These wells will help about 1600 people in two communities to stay safe and healthy. It will also offer them precious time, time that they can use to work and care for their homes and families.

Seeking water from sand in Haiti - courtesy Water.org

Learn more about the water crisis in Haiti and what Water.org is doing to help.

Now it’s time for the fun part: My Passports with Purpose prize. This year I’m so happy to partner with Kimpton Hotels to donate a three-night stay at any of their over 100 hotels across the United States, along with a gift certificate for two at any Kimpton restaurant.

Double room at the Hotel Monaco Baltimore Kimpton

If you’ve never stayed in a Kimpton Hotel, you’re in for a treat. They offer a fabulous combination of luxury and fun. Last December we were fortunate to visit the Hotel Monaco in Baltimore and loved everything about it from the kid-sized leopard-print robes to the free wine offered every afternoon in the glamorous lobby. And Kimpton Hotels are known not just for their stylish interiors, fun touches like pet goldfish, and attentive service; they also love to feed their guests well. We have had wonderful meals at two Kimpton restaurants: The B&O Brasserie in Baltimore and Firefly in Washington, DC (which is one of my all-time favorite kid-friendly restaurants anywhere).

Chicken fried oysters at Firefly Restaurant

And if you’re not in the market for a hotel stay, don’t worry. In fact, from gear to getaways there are lots of chances to win great prizes. Every $10 that you donate gets you one chance toward the prize of your choice. And it’s up to you – you can donate $30 and split your chances among three different prizes or put all your money toward one prize of your choice. You can even make the donations in honor of someone special (they make great holiday gifts!).

I’ve participated in Passports With Purpose since it started in 2008 and every year the founders – Michelle Duffy of WanderMom, Debbie Dubrow of Delicious Baby, Pam Mandel of Nerd’s Eye View, and Beth Whitman of Wanderlust and Lipstick – have chosen a charity project I believe in, whether we were helping to build a village in India or libraries in Zambia.

To browse the other prizes and donate for chances to win, please visit the Passports With Purpose donation page between today and December 11, 2012. And if you feel like helping even more, you might use one of those buttons up at the top of this post to share it through your social media channels.

So as you rush around trying to get it all done before the holidays, take a moment to remember the people in Haiti who have to work so hard just to try and meet their children’s basic needs. What could be a better gift than giving them both safe water and time to focus on something other than getting it?

A big thank you is due not only to the Passports With Purpose founders, but to the 2012 sponsors who have helped make this fundraiser happen: Expedia, TripIt, TBEX, TravellersPoint, HostelBookers, GoWithOh, and HomeAway. And thank you also to Water.org for the photos from Haiti.

Fine print: Gift certificate for two nights stay at any Kimpton Hotel in the United States and dinner for two at any Kimpton restaurant is valid until December 31, 2013 and is subject to availability. Must enter to win between November 28 and December 11, 2012, 11:59 p.m (PST) at the Passports With Purpose website. Prize is donated to the fundraiser by Kimpton Hotels.

Filed Under: Giving back, Passports with purpose, Water.org

Visit the Hotel Monaco Baltimore

By Mara

Armchair at the Hotel Monaco Baltimore

[photospace]

I’m going to admit more than a little sheepishly that up until today I’ve unfairly ignored Baltimore. There it sits, an hour from my front door with its harbor and water taxis and museums, and for years now I’ve either turned my back on it and headed for Philadelphia or driven through it on my way to Washington, DC. I’m happy to report that this situation has now been rectified by the lovely people at the Hotel Monaco Baltimore and Kimpton Hotels, who invited me to spend a night there last weekend to see just what the city has to offer (which, as it turns out, is quite a bit). I’d like to point out that before this post has ended, you’re going to have an easy chance to win two nights at a Kimpton Hotel yourself. But first, let’s visit Baltimore, shall we?

My feelings about the city will certainly be forever altered by the friendly staff and low-key elegance of The Hotel Monaco, which is located a quick half-mile from the Inner Harbor attractions like the Maryland Science Center in the former headquarters of the B & O Railroad. The magnificent marble street-level lobby is worthy of any early twentieth-century industry baron. The Beaux Arts steps and ceiling are especially spectacular. I also liked the elevators, although I wish that an arrow still indicated what floor they are on, just like in the movies!

While the décor of the rest of the hotel is chic and modern, there are thoughtful references to the trains in its past. My favorite may have been the transom over the closet door of our room, which showed a photo of train wheels and when illuminated served as one of the coolest nightlights ever.

The Kimpton brand is all about small details that make you feel taken care of and at home. For example, let the hotel know in advance that you’re arriving with kids (or just like animals), and they’ll be happy to provide you with your very own goldfish in your room. If your kids are like mine and, thanks to some wicked allergies, don’t have any pets, discovering a fishbowl in their hotel room was a pretty exciting moment.

We had adjoining king and double rooms, a set-up that would be perfect for a family with three or more kids. Both rooms were spacious, and we all could have comfortably stayed in the double room, although of course the boys were thrilled to have their own space – and their own beds – and quickly made the most of those upholstered headboards. They also liked the kid-size animal print robes and the thermal bags stuffed with crayons and coloring pages that greeted them on arrival and which they promptly made their own. The rooms also sported comfy chairs and ottomans, which were the perfect spot for lounging with the paper.

Another big plus in my book is the Kimpton brand’s eco-friendly policies, which shows in many small details throughout the hotel from the Aveda products in the bathroom to the clearly marked recycling bins to the fact that there are non-paper cups and glasses to use. I would like to suggest that leaving the lights on and the radio playing upon arrival and after turndown are a bit less than environmentally sound and might be dispensed with. (Another minor complaint is the wi-fi charge, although you can avoid these by signing up for the Kimpton InTouch Loyalty Program, which offers other benefits and discounts as well.)

Every evening the Hotel Monaco hosts a wine reception in the more intimate lobby space on the first floor. I loved the distressed glass surrounding the fireplace and the cozy sofas. The boys loved the seasonal hot cider and the Wii. What I thought was especially brilliant was that although the video game is in plain view, the seating has been configured so that it isn’t intrusive at all. Drapes on the windows and wall muffle the sound in the event that things get exciting. I felt completely relaxed sipping wine and watching the kids play seeing that they weren’t bothering anyone else (and the other seats were completely full). If we were interested in quieter pursuits, we could have also played a board game.

You’ll definitely want to connect with Laurelle, the concierge at the Hotel Monaco Baltimore ahead of your stay or as soon you get there if you’re arriving with kids in tow. She’s got a great list of recommendations that you can use to plan your Baltimore outings, and she’s happy to email them to you. Be sure to get her restaurant suggestions too – I did and on our first day we ended up in a great neighborhood lunch spot, eating with loads of locals instead of the hordes of people at the Maryland Science Center’s small café. She can also set you up with another cool family-friendly amenity: The hotel’s bicycles (designed in colors to match the logo). Borrow all four and bike around the Inner Harbor on a nice day.

I’ll be sharing more about our trip to Baltimore and what we did later this week, including the story of our meals at the hotel’s own B&O Brasserie, which gets high marks not only for its food but for its friendly service. But before I do that, I have some other exciting news.

You can win a special Kimpton Hotel giveaway for your family including a two-night stay at any Kimpton Hotel property of your choice to help you experience your own family Kimpton Holiday!

In this I’m so happy to be joined by four other fab family travel bloggers, each of whom spent a night this past weekend at a different Kimpton Hotel with her family. Since we’re all participating in the giveaway, you have up to five chances to win. Here’s how to enter:

Leave a comment on this blog post answering the following question: “At what Kimpton property are you dreaming about staying the weekend?”

Each day from today through Saturday, my fellow family travel writers at Hip Travel Mama, Pit Stops for Kids, Ciao Bambino, and The Vacation Gals will be sharing blog posts on their Kimpton Holiday experiences, so make sure you check their blogs for additional chances to win.

You get one entry for each of the five participating Kimpton Holiday blog posts you leave a comment on (up to five entries, or one per blog).

Entries close on Sunday Dec 11, 2011 at 11:59 p.m. PST. The winner will be announced Monday, Dec 12, 2011

Promotion Rules: The Kimpton Hotel Holiday getaway prize is a gift certificate for two-night stay at any Kimpton Hotel in the Continental US and is valued at $500. Up to five entries per person. No purchase necessary to enter. Void where prohibited by law. You must be a US resident, 21 or older to participate. Employees, partners, agents, vendors, or immediate family members of Mother of All Trips, Hip Travel Mama, The Vacation Gals, Ciao Bambino, and Pitstops for Kids are not eligible to enter. This is a random drawing, so odds of winning will depend on number of entrants. Rules are governed by the state of Washington. Hip Travel Mama, The Mother of All Trips, and other participating sites reserve the right to cancel, suspend, and or modify a promotion if any problem corrupts the administration, security or proper play of the promotion. In the event of a dispute as to the winner’s identity, entries will be deemed made by the holder of the email account associated with the entry. Entrants agree that Hip Travel Mama, The Mother of All Trips, or any of the other participating sites are not responsible and cannot be held liable for any unauthorized intervention, technical errors, printing errors, mail delays and any other errors in connection with the administration with this program.

And one more disclaimer: Kimpton Hotels paid for our rooms at the Hotel Monaco and also treated us to breakfast at the B&O Brasserie. You can always count on me to tell you when I’ve received something for free – and also to honestly share my opinions.


Filed Under: Baltimore, Baltimore fun, Family travel tips, MidAtlantic adventures, Sleeping, We've been here

Pittsburgh with kids: Fort Pitt history with a side of pizza

By Mara

Point State Park Fountain Pittsburgh

In June and July of 2016 I took my 11- and 14-year-old sons Teddy and Tommy on a large, looping road trip from Delaware to Wisconsin and back again. Over nearly three weeks we drove 2400 miles, rode the ferry across Lake Michigan, drove in and out of Canada, listened to Books 1 and 2 of the Harry Potter series, and ate innumerable French fries. For a week in the middle my husband Matt joined us as we hung out with his family; but the rest of the time I was solo parenting (and driving).

In a few instances on this journey (hashtag: #momtomted) I was given discounted or complimentary stays or tickets to attractions, either by invitation or because I asked. This was true of our stay at the Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh where we stayed for two nights, one of them free, one of them at a discounted rate. You can always count on me to tell you when I’ve gotten something for cheap or free and to also share my honest opinions and stories.

A stroll or bike ride around Pittsburgh’s downtown or a ride up one of its mechanized inclines definitely offers a picture of the city’s 19th- and 20th-century industrial past, but of course Pittsburgh was important long before there were any steel mills. And since my older son Tommy is a big history buff (as is his mother) the three of us decided after lunch on our second Pittsburgh day to ride our bikes back over to Point State Park and the see what we could learn at the Fort Pitt Museum.

This museum is a wonderful place to get a primer on Pittsburgh’s 18th-century origins as well as the region’s role in both the French and Indian War and the American Revolution. In 1754 the British arrived at the point and built the first of a series of forts. They were quickly overthrown by the French, who mere months later constructed Fort Duquesne, which they held until 1758 when they set fire to the fort before abandoning the land to the British (including a young George Washington) who built what was then the most advanced fort in the new world, calling it Fort Pitt.

Fort Pitt Museum Pittsburgh coat of arms

The coat of arms for William Pitt, 1st Earl of Chatham who was Prime Minister during the French and Indian War. Can you tell where the Steelers get their colors from?

The British used the fort until 1772, when they abandoned it to private ownership. The Continental Army ended up taking control of the fort and using it as their far western outpost during the Revolutionary War.

Fort Pitt Museum map

The original fort is mostly gone, but this map shows its shape.

The first floor of the museum includes a detailed replica of Fort Pitt with audio explanations about all its component parts. A nearby exhibit offers a chance to see what day-to-day life was like in the fort in the fort during the middle of the 18th century.

Fort Pitt Museum Pittsburgh with kids

Do you think he’s ready for frontier life?

There are canons, replicas of the barracks, and a trader’s cabin – in addition to being an important military outpost, the fort was also an economic center where colonists and native people traded everything from furs to firearms. It was here that we all learned why American dollars are called bucks.

Fort Pitt Museum Pittsburgh sign

I’ll take two childrens’ shirts and 4 bars of lead please….

The exhibits upstairs tell the story of the struggle for the region between the native people, the French and the British using artifacts, video, placards and maps.

We probably spent about two hours inside the museum – Tommy and I read just about every panel, and Teddy had retrieved a scavenger hunt from the front desk that kept him occupied for most of that time as well. One of the more fascinating exhibits told the story of European colonists who were captured by the native peoples, sometimes for ransom. It was full of complicated and compelling narratives of the fraught relationships between the people who lived at what was then the frontier.

Point State Park Fountain Pittsburgh

Point State Park is a perfect place to cool off on a summer day.

When we were all finished, we retrieved our bikes and blinking in the bright sun, headed back into the 21st century, riding to the end of the point where Teddy promptly removed his shoes and dipped his feet in the large fountain. It’s a great spot to contemplate what Pittsburgh was like before steel bridges crossed its rivers.

It took us about fifteen or twenty minutes to ride back to the Hotel Monaco. By now I felt quite justifiably tired and triumphant – not only had I successfully navigated the boys all over downtown Pitttsburgh on bicycles, I had put the bikes back on the rack on my car, a task usually taken care of by my husband. That I did this on the street in front of the hotel with the valets watching me, amusement in their eyes, only made my success that much sweeter. I was ready to relax a bit.

Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh wine hour prosecco

My well-earned glass of prosecco.

Happily, I had come to the right place. One thing I absolutely adore about Kimpton Hotels is their evening wine hour, while these vary slightly in their particulars from hotel to hotel, one thing is always the same: they offer a chance to sip something tasty while kicking back in style. The Hotel Monaco in Pittsburgh does not disappoint on this front. In addition to beer and wine, their wine hour features flavored syrups to create custom iced teas. The boys quickly became involved in a game of chess while I sipped prosecco and wandered around and looked at the quirky decor.

Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh wine hour

There are always fun things for kids to do in Kimpton Hotel lobbies.

For dinner we decided to go a bit farther afield than we had during the rest of our visit and took an Uber car over to the far side of the University of Pittsburgh campus to Dinette, situated in the rapidly gentrifying East Liberty neighborhood. The seasonal, fresh pizzas and salads were worth the trip, even if they were out of roast peaches for the burrata salad. It didn’t feel like much of a compromise to instead eat the tenderest butter lettuce and corn. And since the pizzas were sized for one person, I was more than happy to order one with anchovies and jalapeños.

Dinette Pittsburgh anchoy pizza

So many yummy, grown-up things on this pizza.

I was just patting myself on the back for another fun day of family travel as a solo parent when we left the restaurant. But what was this? The Uber app wasn’t working. It wouldn’t load. After trying unsuccessfully for 25 minutes to summon a car I realized it was getting quite late and that the streets around us were pretty empty – in fact I didn’t see a single cab. I wasn’t quite sure what to do so we headed back to the restaurant, which had since closed. Happily the Sonja Finn the chef-owner was sitting at the bar and one of the kind kitchen staff (I regret to this day that I didn’t get his name – thank you again kind stranger) called us a car using his Lyft app, refusing to take any money from me for it. While we waited for our ride, Sonja took Tommy upstairs to see her rooftop garden where that divine lettuce I had eaten earlier had grown.

Utterly exhausted and satisfied from our day, we were so happy to sink into our luxurious beds back at the Hotel Monaco – in addition to adorable decor, our room boasted wonderful soundproofing, perfect for a family who had filled themselves up and worn themselves out on plenty of Pittsburgh fun.

Note: I’ve actually completely stopped using Uber since last summer because I have a lot of concerns about their business practices, so if I were to take this trip now I’d probably arrange for a conventional taxi in advance. But I wanted to share this story as a cautionary tale for the many people I know who rely on it. It’s yet another reminder that it’s always good to have backup plans when you’re traveling with kids. And up next: With one more morning in Pittsburgh, we make the most of our time in the strip district before once again hitting the road for our next stop in Sandusky, Ohio. And in case you missed the first four installments of my summer 2016 road trip posts here they are:

  • A summer stay at Capon Springs Resort
  • Songs, stories and memories at Capon Springs Resort
  • Pittsburgh with kids: Inclines, ice creams and a swell hotel
  • Pittsburgh with kids: Biking the ‘burgh

Filed Under: Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, We've been here

Pittsburgh with kids: Biking the ‘burgh

By Mara

Allegheny River view Pittsburgh Bike the Burgh

In June and July of 2016 I took my 11- and 14-year-old sons Teddy and Tommy on a large, looping road trip from Delaware to Wisconsin and back again. Over nearly three weeks we drove 2400 miles, rode the ferry across Lake Michigan, drove in and out of Canada, listened to Books 1 and 2 of the Harry Potter series, and ate innumerable French fries. For a week in the middle my husband Matt joined us as we hung out with his family; but the rest of the time I was solo parenting (and driving).

In a few instances on this journey (hashtag: #momtomted) I was given discounted or complimentary stays or tickets to attractions, either by invitation or because I asked. This was true of our stay at the Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh where we stayed for two nights, one of them free, one of them at a discounted rate. You can always count on me to tell you when I’ve gotten something for cheap or free and to also share my honest opinions and stories.

McCullough Bridge Pittsburgh Bike the Burgh

Biking across the McCullough Bridge in Pittsburgh

I’m a big believer that one of the best ways to see any city is from the back of a bike. You can cover more territory than on foot, but you move more slowly and with freer access than you would in a car. It’s a particularly great way to tour with children because they love being outside and moving. And as more cities around the world become bike-friendly this type of exploration only gets safer and easier – especially because the creation of bike trails in cities usually inspires someone local to start offering tours.

Pittsburgh is no exception to this rule; as the industrial areas of the city are repurposed, trails and bike lane are being installed and not far behind these developments came the advent of Bike the Burgh tours. I found this truly small (as in one-person) outfit online and used the website to book a tour for myself and the boys on our first morning in Pittsburgh.

Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh Lobby

Can you tell why Kimpton Hotels call their lobbies “living rooms”?

The day started in the Hotel Monaco’s peaceful lobby here with I enjoyed a complimentary cup of perfectly brewed coffee while the kids slept in a bit. (Ah, the perks of having older kids! Part of the pleasure of my solitude was watching a dad chase his child who looked to be about 13 months old and was still in his pajamas. It had clearly been a very early morning.)

The Commoner Restaurant Pittsburgh Breakfast

No, he did not eat all of these pancakes.

After rousing my children and covering us all in lots of sunblock, as it was another gorgeous but not-too-hot day, we fueled up with a breakfast at The Commoner restaurant that included some of the biggest pancakes I’d ever seen. The valet was kind enough to bring up my car so I could get the bikes off our rack, and we headed off to the designated meeting place, only a few blocks from our hotel at the corner of First Avenue and Ross Street.

Bike the Burgh Tour

I know the boys both look bored in this picture, but I think it’s just because they were listening carefully.

Our guide was Val, the owner and operator. She is a native of the Italian Alps who studied art and architectural history in Munich and Rome before meeting her husband, a Pittsburgh native. Her enthusiasm for Pittsburgh was that of an outsider who surprised herself by falling in love with her adopted home – she clearly had set out to eagerly learn everything she could about its history and buildings and decided somewhere along the way to make a living sharing that knowledge with people. Her English was flawless and her interest in the city totally infectious.

We started our tour with a few stops downtown – including one in Mellon Square, adjacent to our hotel. Val asked us to imagine how dirty downtown Pittsburgh used to be during its more industrial days and told us that in general residents avoided downtown unless they had to for work. Tommy and I were able to chime in and share information about the old Alcoa headquarters building that overlooked our hotel since we had done our research the previous evening.

Magnolias for Pittsburgh Bike the Burgh

These magnolia trees never lose their blooms.

Using bike lanes, we moved north to the Pittsburgh Cultural District where an artist named Tony Tasset has created magnolia blooms that can be enjoyed year-round. Here Val talked about John Heinz, the late politician and native son who worked with the Pittsburgh Cultural Trust to revive the area’s façades and building and to sponsor performances and public works of art.

We headed through the Convention Center, which swoops out over the Allegheny River and has a walkway designed for pedestrians – and cyclists – that runs under the building. I wish I had snapped a photo as we rode through as the path descends seventeen feet from Tenth Street to a plaza overlooking the river. The path is sinuous and surrounded by both pools and walls that flow with water. The boys loved it and I loved watching them so much that I forgot to pull out my camera. Even if you don’t take a bike tour of the city, I highly recommend wandering down here as it’s the kind of public space that children really enjoy.

We rode for a while along the river, through a former industrial area that is slowly being reclaimed by nature and gentrification. Our next stop was on the edge of an area called The Strip, which in the early 19th century was home to the mills and foundries that drove Pittsburgh’s economy, including Andrew Carnegie’s first mills. The neighborhood changed in the late 19th and early 20th century and became the hub of wholesale produce distribution in the city. Many of the old buildings associated with these industries have been repurposed as apartments or studios and the neighborhood is now a mix of restaurants and shops selling food, spices and goods from all around the world. We someone how squeezed our bike caravan down the busy, brilliant streets past a rainbow of sundresses billowing in the breeze, past a small church with a gray steeple that for many years was used not for mass but as a concert venue and bar but was now being reconsecrated and used for worship again, past murals and Steelers t-shirts and a fish market. It would have been easy to spend the better part of a day here.

Heinz Factory Bike the Burgh Pittsburgh

Val teaching Teddy all about the Heinz Factory.

We crossed the Allegheny at the David McCullough Bridge, named for the famous historian and native son and rode around the perimeter of  the original Heinz Factory, once the site of the manufacture of my younger son’s favorite condiment and now converted into expensive lofts where players for the city’s professional sports franchises and employees of Uber and Google live. We even saw Uber’s self-driving car, which the company is testing in Pittsburgh.

New Alcoa Headquarters Pittsburgh Bike the Burgh

I prefer the original Alcoa Headquarters.

We rode along the Allegheny River taking in views of the Three Sisters, as the trio of graceful yellow bridges that cross it are called, and the kayakers paddling underneath them. This portion of the ride included views of the baseball and football stadiums as well as the new Alcoa Headquarters, perhaps not quite as interesting as the old but equally gleaming and geometric.

Allegheny River view Pittsburgh Bike the Burgh

Teddy looked ready to try kayaks next.

After crossing the river back to the downtown area, we took a quick tour to the tip of the city where Fort Pitt once stood and which is now home to the Point State Park Fountain. Val then led us to the nearby Market Square, which was laid out in the late 18th century and still feels older than many other parts of the downtown (Val said she likes it because it feels European). The square was full of a farmer’s market when we arrived and made our way over to the adjacent PPG Place, with its domineering Philip Johnson-designed castle of glass.

PPG Headquarters Pittsburgh

The PPG building has to be one of the most photographed in the city.

It was full of children playing in the water jets – I could see the boys wishing they were wearing their swim trunks.

PPG Place Pittsburgh Bike the Burgh

If you’re looking for a place to cool off in Pittsburgh, this is it.

By now it was time to say good-bye to Val and the group, who headed back to the starting point, because both my boys were ravenous. Happily Val recommended that we lunch at Primanti Brothers right there in Market Square. This local favorite, which actually started as a food cart in the Strip District, serves French fries and coleslaw inside its sandwiches.

Primanti Bros Sandwich Pittsburgh

They put everything inside the sandwich in Pittsburgh – and I mean everything.

Thanks to Val, I definitely felt like we had started to get to know Pittsburgh. It was the perfect introduction.

Bike the Burgh tour Pittsburgh

We all loved Val – she was friendly, enthusiastic and knowledgeable.

 

Travel-with-kids tips

  • Val offers a number of different tours year-round in all kinds of weather (although not in “rain, snow, or ice” as her site says). Tours during the colder months are offered by reservation only – check her website for details.
  • During nicer weather it’s a good idea to book in advance, especially on the weekends when the tours tend to fill up.
  • Our Beauty of the Burgh tour was pretty much completely flat and only about 7 miles. We stopped often so that Val could tell us things, so there was plenty of time to rest.
  • We had our own bikes and helmets, but there are several options for visitors who don’t have bicycles with them – Val has a deal for a discounted rate with a bike rental shop (they close in the winter, so this only an option in warmer weather). She also starts her tours near a bike share stand where bikes can be rented by the hour using a mobile app and returned at a different location. The bike share bikes are one-size-fits all and will only work for older kids who are tall enough to ride them. And if you stay, as we did, at the Hotel Monaco, the hotel has bikes you can use. Although rental shops usually offer helmets, if you’re planning to rent bikes on a trip and have a way to bring your own helmets I always recommend doing so – that way you know you’ll have the best fit for you and your kids.
  • Val also offers tours in German.
  • If you’re interested in biking Pittsburgh on your own, BikePGH offers downloadable bike maps as well as link to other cycling resources.

Up next: Our day wasn’t yet done! Join me as we learn a lot about Pittsburgh history, relax during the Hotel Monaco wine hour and eat more great food. And in case you missed the first three installments of my summer 2016 road trip posts here they are:

  • A summer stay at Capon Springs Resort
  • Songs, stories and memories at Capon Springs Resort
  • Pittsburgh with kids: Inclines, ice creams and a swell hotel
  • Pittsburgh with kids: Fort Pitt history with a side of pizza

Like this post? See some of my other stories of biking with kids:

  • Why I love biking with kids
  • Paris with kids: See the city by bike
  • Beautiful biking on the Stowe Recreation Path
  • Madison on bikes
  • A bike ride in London

Biking the Burgh

Filed Under: Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, We've been here

Pittsburgh with kids: Inclines, ice cream and a swell hotel

By Mara

Mount Washington Pittsburgh view

In June and July of 2016 I took my 11- and 14-year-old sons Teddy and Tommy on a large, looping road trip from Delaware to Wisconsin and back again. Over nearly three weeks we drove 2400 miles, rode the ferry across Lake Michigan, drove in and out of Canada, listened to Books 1 and 2 of the Harry Potter series, and ate innumerable French fries. For a week in the middle my husband Matt joined us as we hung out with his family; but the rest of the time I was solo parenting (and driving).

In a few instances on this journey (hashtag: #momtomted) I was given discounted or complimentary stays or tickets to attractions, either by invitation or because I asked. This was true of our stay at the Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh where we stayed for two nights, one of them free, one of them at a discounted rate. You can always count on me to tell you when I’ve gotten something for cheap or free and to also share my honest opinions and stories.

Our departure from Capon Springs Resort was lovely – it was a golden, perfect morning. The first part of our drive as glorious and green and twisting as one could hope for, with purple and orange wildflowers edging the roadside. The spell cast by our three intensely rural West Virginia days lasted until we pulled onto the Pennsylvania Turnpike. I’ve driven the length of this road many times in the past three decades. But it had been a while since I was on the western leg and I had forgotten about the narrow lanes, sharp curves, tunnels and above all, the numerous semi trucks flying along with little regard for the smaller vehicles in their way (the speed limit for much of this stretch of road is 70 miles an hour). It felt like something of a jarring return to the 21st century, and not for the first or last time on this trip I wished that I didn’t have to do all of the driving, especially since I had three bikes bouncing around on a tenuously attached bike rack at the back of my low-riding Saab station wagon.

But at last we emerged from one last tunnel with our destination in view: Pittsburgh.

Pittsburgh downtown panorama

Right at home at the Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh

Like all Kimpton Hotels (I’m an unabashed fan girl of this chain, but more on that in a later post) the Hotel Monaco in Pittsburgh is a mix of quirky decor, chic luxury and genuine comfort. Our corner room was spacious and full of fun colors and patterns with numerous bird-and-postage-themed details.

Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh

They loved this room – can you tell why?

Although the boys were immediately inclined to sprawl, I knew that they needed to eat a late lunch, so we dropped our bags and headed straight downstairs for The Commoner. The interior of this restaurant manages to be both cozy and post-industrial with lots of dark wood, subway tile and riveted columns.

The Commoner Pittsburgh lunch

The lunch portions at The Commoner were huge.

The food is a similar mix of comfort and high concept – Tommy’s mac and cheese had a fried egg on top and Teddy’s burger came topped with smoked cheddar cheese. I enjoyed a butter lettuce salad with cashews, grapes and apples and a flatbread topped with prosciutto, greens and a balsamic drizzle. Portions were generous and the service quick and before we knew it all those trucks I had been dodging for the past few hours just faded into the background. We were ready to explore.

Pittsburgh then and now

Pittsburgh 1996

Pittsburgh – and me – in 1996. (Nice shoes!)

The last time I visited Pittsburgh was sometime in the mid 1990s when my then-boyfriend, now-husband Matt and I were in graduate school at Penn State a few hours away. I remembered it as a place that was a little gritty and a little hip, a place trying to honor the heritage of the coal and steel industry while also putting the 1970s resolutely behind it. But my memories were more glimpses than anything else.

We were desperately broke, of course, but couldn’t resist occasional splurge trips to the city for hotel stays and meals out. There was a Mexican restaurant we liked near the University of Pittsburgh campus with bottles of an addictive spicy green sauce on all the tables and an Italian place downtown that made table-side fettuccine Alfredo – but I didn’t know the names of either place or whether they were still in business. I remembered practicing pronouncing the name Monongahela (mah-nahn-gah-heela), the river which meets both the Ohio and the Allegheny at the city’s founding place. I know that on one visit to the city for a writing conference I saw August Wilson read from Seven Guitars, which he hadn’t yet finished at the time. But I don’t remember what I learned about Pittsburgh and its neighborhoods from his reading, just that there were many neighborhoods separated by hills and, in the early 20th century, by the ethnicities of their inhabitants.

But I did remember riding a cable car up a shockingly steep incline beside one of the rivers and strolling and taking pictures from the top. And so it was I decided that on our first afternoon the boys and I would get the lay of the land in this same way through a bird’s-eye view of the city and its bridges and skylines.

Downtown Pittsburgh

The cool skyscraper to the left is the Alcoa Building.

We set out on foot from the hotel’s front door, stumbling across a mix of old and new, of beautification efforts like a sidewalk being painted before our eyes followed by some vape shops a few blocks away. My best friend vapes so I decided to pop into one of the shops to pick her up some Vape Juice as a souvenir. I was so impressed by all the different flavors. My friend is currently trying to give up cigarettes so she has switched to vaping as it is believed to be a healthier alternative. I hope she likes the best vape mod I have chosen for her! I was speaking to the store assistant for a while and it was nice to learn more about vaping. She loves sweet flavors so I got her some candyfloss and bubblegum liquid too. I didn’t get her a brand new vape because I’m pretty sure she’s content with the one she’s already got; it’s something similar to this high-quality keyy vape pen. However, I knew that a new e-liquid would be something she’d appreciate and perhaps would become one of her favorites!

I know that she has tried quite a few different types of e-liquid already, but I think I might have found one that she has not used yet! When she first started vaping, I was surprised to learn that you can now get e-liquids for vaping devices that are infused with THC. My friend lives in Canada, where cannabis has been legalized. This means that people who use cannabis for health reasons can get their marijuana fix via their vape devices. I thought this was so interesting. If you would like further information, you can learn more about THC vape liquids here: https://buymyweedonline.com/product/ease-thc-1000mg-vape-liquid/.

Street art Pittsburgh

This street was being painted as we walked it.

The Smithfield Street Bridge, one of over 400 bridges in the city and one of the oldest steel bridges in the United States, invited us across the Monongahela when we reached it.

Smithfield Street Bridge Pittsburgh

I love the decorative detail on the Smithfield Street Bridge.

This was one of the things I immediately loved about Pittsburgh, the way its history is underfoot all the time. They made things here once and the city quietly reminds its visitors of that fact at every opportunity. History here is about utility and common sense.The cable cars at the Monongahela Incline have crept up and down the mountain without interruption for almost 150 years, and why would there be any need to change that fact?

Monogahela Incline Pittsburgh

Teddy thought this would be like an amusement park ride. Not so much.

Teddy tried to get alarmed when he saw how steep the ride would be, but that’s only because he didn’t realize quite how slowly the cars move. I teased him all the way up, up, slowly up.

The hill that the cable car ascends and the neighborhood at the top are called Mount Washington, named for the fact that young George Washington used this spot as a place to survey and map the lands around the Ohio River for the British. All along the edge of the aptly named Grandview Avenue there are overlooks filled with visitors and locals alike. Brides and grooms pose here and there are yoga classes. It’s one of those great democratic spaces that gives anyone who comes along the keys to the city via its views.

Mount Washington Pittsburgh

Ice cream helped them pose for some photos from the overlook on Mount Washington. Well, sort of.

I would be remiss if I didn’t point out that the boys, upon seeing a sign for DiFiore’s Ice Cream Delite as soon as we came out of the incline station, requested the purchase of said ice cream, a request which I honored despite the size of our lunch because I hoped it would enable a more peaceful stroll. This was successful until both boys said that they needed to use a restroom when their cones had vanished. Happily, the local branch of the Carnegie Library of Pittsburgh came to our rescue.

Pittsburgh selfie

Pittsburgh – and me – in 2017.

Beer? Check. Sausages? Check. Lovely sunset? You bet. The Biergarten has it all.

Originally I had intended to take the boys out for dinner, but when we got back to the Hotel Monaco all Teddy wanted to do was hang out in our room and watch cartoons. Since the hotel had been kind enough to provide a snack and since we had enjoyed such a big, late lunch (to say nothing of the ice cream) I decided to let him really relax and enjoy himself. Tommy and I both felt like we needed a bit more to eat however, so we headed for the elevator up to the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, the Biergarten.

Hotel Monaco Kimpton Pittsburgh Biergarten

The Biergarten is the Hotel Monaco’s rooftop restaurant in Pittsburgh.

There, in the full pink glow of the setting sun, we enjoyed beer braised bratwurst, fried pickles and German potato salad laden with salty bacon.

Hotel Monaco Pittsburgh Biergarten brat

We were supposed to share this bratwurst. We ended up ordering a second one.

Admiring the skyline, since of course we had made it our own that afternoon, we decided that we must figure out what the cool building we could see from our room was. Directly facing the hotel, its facade had shimmering triangles and windows with rounded corners. It looked like a place where George Jetson would work if he had a job in Pittsburgh.

Thanks to Wikipedia, we learned that it was the former headquarters for the Aluminum Company of American (ALCOA), was built in 1953 and contained a radiant heating and cooling system that kept it from needing any radiators or air conditioners along the exterior walls – so it was space age. It was the first skyscraper with a completely aluminum facade, which is only 1/8 of an inch thick and is super lightweight. It used to be called the Alcoa Building, and that’s how I refer to it still, since the new name is the decidedly unromantic and ahistoric Regional Enterprise Tower.

Thus nourished with plenty of pork and information, we headed back to the room for a night in those delicious beds. I couldn’t wait to see what additional wonders Pittsburgh would show us in the morning.

Up next: We take a bicycle tour of Pittsburgh, learn a lot about history and eat a lot more great food. And in case you missed the first two installments of my summer 2016 road trip posts here they are:

  • A summer stay at Capon Springs Resort
  • Songs, stories and memories at Capon Springs Resort

Pittsburgh with kids PGH

Filed Under: Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, We've been here

Simple vacation pleasures: Board games, treats, and family time

By Mara

Hotel Monaco Philadelphia board games
Hotel Monaco Philadelphia Family Hour

The Hotel Monaco in Philadelphia will loan your family a board game or two

Sometimes the simplest things make for a fabulous family vacation. When the Hotel Monaco Philadelphia invited me and my family for a complimentary overnight to check out their new Family Fun Night package, I jumped at the chance to enjoy a quick getaway in one of the Monaco’s stylish rooms.

Kimpton Hotel Monaco Philadelphia

Relaxing in our room overlooking Independence Hall

The package includes valet parking, a backpack full of games for the kids, an in-room movie, and late checkout the next day. But what really sounded fun to me was Family Hour in the living room (which is what all Kimpton hotels call their lobbies). Family Hour is full of the kinds of small pleasures that kids and adults love. First, you get your choice of fun treats.

Kimpton Hotel Monaco Philadelphia treats

I saw just as many adults as kids helping themselves to these treats.

Then, you’re invited to pull out a board game and make yourself comfortable. The kids were hoping that we could find one of the tabletop games that can be found on this website https://dnd.wizards.com/products/catalog/tabletop-games as that’s what they’ve been playing a lot with their friends recently. Unfortunately, they didn’t have it so we started out with a round of Sorry!

Hotel Monaco Philadelphia board games

Nothing like a little friendly competition.

Then we moved onto a rousing round of Apples to Apples (lots giggling ensued).

Kimpton Philadelphia Family Hour

We love playing Apples to Apples – it makes us all very silly.

And the best part about Family Hour? Immediately on its heels comes Wine Hour. Sip a glass or two while you finish up your games. It may not be the best wine in the world, but you’ll be so comfortable that you won’t mind.

Hotel Monaco Philadelphia Wine Hour

I like how the Hotel Monaco rolls – from Family Hour to Wine Hour.

The atmosphere in the lobby was convivial. Everyone clearly felt cared for and relaxed and I loved that my kids could be part of this low-key, slightly quirky elegance.

I’m sharing this post today as part of my friend Keryn’s new Friday Postcards series. If you’d like to get your weekend started off with some travel photo inspiration I hope you’ll swing by and read the other posts linked there.

I make no secret of my unabashed love for Kimpton Hotels – they are, without a question my favorite upscale family-friendly chain. If you like this post, you might also enjoy seeing some of the other Kimpton adventures I’ve enjoyed with my family:

  • Visit the Hotel Monaco Baltimore
  • Philadelphia family travel: Luxury and fun at the Hotel Monaco
  • Pazzo Ristorante: Another great Kimpton restaurant
  • A weekend in the heart of Portland, Oregon with kids
  • Fabulous family dining at Firefly Restaurant

Our Family Fun Night package and meals were paid for by Kimpton Hotels on this trip. You can always count on me to disclose when I’ve received something for free and to share my honest opinion.

 

Filed Under: Friday postcards, Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, We've been here

A weekend in the heart of Portland, Oregon with kids

By Mara

The Oregon Maritime Museum is in a moored paddle steamboat on the Willamette River

I didn’t actually get to spend the weekend in Portland with my children, so a family trip there is technically a Monday dream of mine. But I was lucky enough to visit recently without my kids in tow, which means I can back up any daydreams with research from my scouting expedition. And Portland, Oregon is without question worthy of consideration for a family vacation: It’s a small city with great food, loads of outdoor activities, and a famously friendly vibe.

The Saturday Market in Portland has lots of that kid will like to look at

Photo courtesy of kittybabylove on Flickr/Please click on photos to see full-size versions

If we visited between March and December, I’d definitely start our weekend at the Portland Saturday Market. My boys like nothing better than a breakfast of spring rolls or samosas, both of which are available (along with another favorite breakfast item: Ice cream). While we ate, we could explore the local crafts for sale at dozens of booths and watch glass blowing and street musicians.

The Oregon Maritime Museum is in a moored paddle steamboat on the Willamette River

The market offers easy access to both the Old Town and Chinatown areas of Portland and Tom McCall Waterfront Park, a large green space along the Willamette River right in the middle of the city. When we tired of the market, we’d head here to admire the industrial beauty of the river’s many drawbridges and visit the Oregon Maritime Museum, which is inside a steamboat that’s docked just a little ways up the river. If that wasn’t enough boat time for us, we could take a river cruise on the Portland Spirit or, if we were feeling even more adventurous, take a kayak tour with Portland Kayak at the RiverPlace Marina. We love the idea of kayaking, so when our friend showed us this guide to the best inflatable kayak we were even more tempted to give it a go for ourselves.

The bridges across the Willamette River in Portland are like sculpture

Another possibility for our Portland exploration would be to hop on bikes and start riding. Portland may be the most family-friendly bike city in the United States, with marked trails in many neighborhoods. McCall Waterfront Park would make a great place to start, offering a two-and-a-half mile loop that runs along each side of the river (and would give us a chance to cross two of those cool bridges). The Esplanade across the river from the Waterfront Park offers a 1200-foot floating walkway as well as lots of public art.

An inspirational staircase at Powell's

I could get lost for hours in the travel section at Powell's in Portland, Oregon

On Sunday morning after perhaps another walk along the river, we’d definitely head over to the aptly named Powell’s City of Books. I feel pretty certain that we could easily spend the better part of a morning in this gargantuan bookstore (although we’d definitely need to agree on a central meeting point, as this is a place to get lost in). We’d fall in love with the printed page all over again, but would need to come with a budget both in money and luggage space, as we will want to buy some books – we’re sure to find titles here you’ve never heard of or copies of used out-of-print books you didn’t know you had to have.

Coffee shops and restaurants line RiverPlace in Portland, Oregon

To stay near the Willamette River and the waterfront park, the market, and the maritime museum, we’d book at the Kimpton RiverPlace Hotel, which offers great views and plenty of space for families, to say nothing of easy access to coffee shops and restaurants lining the river at the southern end of the waterfront park. Rent a spacious fireplace suite and we’d have plenty of room to stretch out, plus a fully equipped kitchen and a washer and dryer. But the real appeal is the view.

A view of the marina from the Kimpton Riverplace Hotel

Binoculars come standard in the Kimpton RiverPlace suites

Binoculars come standard, and we could use them to get a closer look at the practicing dragon boat teams, birds, or the numerous sculptural drawbridges spanning the river.

Fireplace suites at the Kimpton RiverPlace Hotel have lots of room to spread out

I’ve made no secret of the fact that I’m a fan of Kimpton Hotels, which offer hosted wine hours every day, free hot chocolate and coffee in the morning, and have fun amenities for families like free bikes to borrow. Sign up for the loyalty program and get free wifi and newspapers delivered to your door daily.

You can feed your family with meals you prepare in the fully equipped kitchen at the Kimpton RiverPlace Hotel

One caveat about this particular Kimpton is that the suites do not sport the kind of fun, interesting interior design that you may have come to expect if you’re familiar with the brand. If you’d prefer a more stylish room, ask to stay in one of the newly redecorated rooms in the main hotel building (the suites are in a separate building just next door that’s directly accessible from the river walk). Note: I just learned from Kimpton that they plan to have all of the rooms in the hotel – including the suites – updated with a fresh new stylish look by the end of April, 2013.

My time in Portland was short, and since it was only the very beginning of March I didn’t get to sample food from the many carts that line its streets in the warmer months, kayak on the river, or check out the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, all of which would be on the agenda for a return visit. So maybe we need more than a weekend for a family visit to Portland. In any event, I know I’ll be dreaming of going back there until we do.

The RiverPlace Hotel offered me a discounted rate on a fireplace suite; all opinions about it and Portland are my own. You can always count on me to tell you when I’ve received something for a discount or for free.

Filed Under: Dreaming of, Oregon, Portland

The magic of trains at the B&O Railroad Museum

By Mara

[photospace]

From the very first time Tommy encountered a train table at a toy store in Stoke Newington, the London neighborhood where we spent a month in 2003, he was hooked on all things locomotive. Since he was our first born, this meant that for a number of years trains ruled everyone’s imaginations at our house. As a consequence, we’ve been to train-related attractions around the United States from the small-gage railroad in Zilker Park in Austin to Travel Town in Griffith Park in Los Angeles to the Strasburg Railroad in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. And since our stay in Baltimore included a night at the Hotel Monaco, which is housed in the former headquarters of the B&O Railroad, I knew that we had to visit the nearby B&O Railroad Museum.

Tommy’s passion for trains has diminished since he discovered baseball, but he was still excited when he learned that Baltimore is considered the birthplace of the American railroad. In fact, the first stone of the B&O Railroad was laid here in 1828 by Charles Carroll, the last surviving signer of the Declaration of Independence. The railroad was for many years an important part of the city’s identity and economic landscape.

The museum’s main building is a magnificent 1884 roundhouse that is full of natural light (prudent for one-time railroad workers – now a photographer’s dream). Engines and train cars encircle a turntable in the middle of the building that is so perfectly balanced that one man can push a huge engine around on it by himself. Visitors are free to wander among the trains, some of which are open for viewing.

We visited the museum during its annual holiday celebration, which runs between Thanksgiving and the end of the year. The roundhouse was decorated within an inch of its life, Santa was available for photographs, and a local dance troupe performed selections from its version of The Nutcracker in the middle of the turntable. But most fun of all were the model train layouts. Every weekend features a different model railroading club’s layout; the one we saw was very festive.

When Tommy was a toddler, I’m fairly certain we would have spent the majority of our time in the Kids Zone, perched between a passenger and luggage car. So I was more than a little amused to find that both boys still wanted to hang out there. Teddy (who never displayed the same kind of interest in trains) even dressed up as an engineer.

I’ll admit right now that I didn’t look closely at many of the exhibits in this museum because I’m not actually all that interested in the history of the railroad. To me, this museum is more about my own history as a mother. But I did stroll through the museum’s impressive exhibition titled “The War Came by Train” commemorating the B&O Railroad’s role in the American Civil War. For five years from 2011 through the end of 2015 the museum will remember the war on its sesquicentennial, changing the exhibit each year to reflect on the corresponding year of the war (1861-1865).

Even without paying attention to their historical significance, the trains are beautiful to look at. I especially liked to see the ways that passenger cars on trains once resembled stage coaches. I also liked the Friendship Train, sent by the French to tour the United States after World War II. These trains once moved American and British soldiers around Europe; after the war, the cars were filled with gifts like French wine and were sent to every state and Hawaii – which at that point was still just a territory.

Outside the roundhouse there are still more trains to see, including a caboose kids can climb all around. There are also several model layouts as well as a station from which you can board a train and ride for 20 minutes along the first commercial mile of train track laid in the United States. If you think your children won’t be impressed by that fact alone, you might plan your ride for a weekend in December when Frosty the Snowman and Santa will be along for the ride. Or perhaps you might just take them for a ride on the Train Carousel, which moves inside during the colder months.

Or maybe your children, like mine, will just be contented to watch the magic of the model trains traveling endlessly in their perfect landscapes of childhood dreams.

Travel-with-kids tips

  • The museum has a snack bar with vending machines and a seasonal menu of items like pizza and hot dogs. You aren’t allowed to bring your own food into the museum. The museum is in a residential area but there aren’t good family dining options immediately adjacent. It’s an easy five-minute drive to the restaurants in the Inner Harbor area.
  • Although the museum is open daily, train rides are offered only Wednesday to Sunday from April to December and on weekends in January. Tickets for train rides are not included in museum admission and are sold on a first-come, first-served basis – get there early on weekends during the holiday season to make sure you get to ride with Santa.
  • It’s worth checking out the museum’s events page to see what’s happening – there are different special events each month including Toddler Time, which runs on the first and third Wednesdays of the month from January through October and includes stories, crafts, and playtime in the Kid Zone.

Filed Under: B&O Railroad Museum, Baltimore, Baltimore fun, MidAtlantic adventures, Museums and zoos, We've been here

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I'm a family travel expert & award-winning writer who loves to eat. Explore this site and you'll find lots of stories about my adventures, and family travel tips. More about Mara

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