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Mondays are for dreaming: Stoke Newington

By Mara

10.19.09_Clissold_Park

October makes me nostalgic for London, which I’ve only ever seen under autumn skies. In particular it makes me long for what I’ve come to consider my own little corner of the city, the “village” of Stoke Newington where Matt, Tommy, and I spent a month six years ago.

Stoke Newington isn’t a tourist destination – there’s nothing there you’d find in a guidebook. What you will find is real Londoners of many stripes going about their real London lives. It is however kind of cool, kind of edgy, and has its own nickname: Stokey. Here Turks and Cypriots, Indians and Pakistanis, Muslims and Hasidic Jews live side by side with the many hip young families of all ethnicities who have flocked there to find reasonably-priced housing (by London’s standards anyway) and green space without moving to the suburbs. On Church Street, the main shopping drag, you can get South Indian, Japanese, French, organic, and Mediterranean food. Walk around the corner and you’ll see pubs and also chickens roasting on spits outside the Halal butcher’s shop. Throw in some public housing and a number of African and Caribbean expatriates, and you have an almost dizzying mix that makes the adjective multicultural seem inadequately bland.

10.19.09_StokeNewington03

When we stayed there, we rented a row house that was part of a long street of Edwardian terraces stretching from Butterfield Green, a quiet and depressing little park whose sole charm lay in its name, to the High Street, the British equivalent of Main Street. The gently curving road was lined with blond brick row houses fronted by bay windows, the thickly painted and repainted trim on almost all of them a uniform white with the occasional rebel yellow or maroon. Waxy cyclamen filled the planters. Evil eye ornaments winked out of many windows casting Mediterranean blue reflections on the pavement.

10.19.09_StokeNewington

It was impossible to escape the fact that we were living in the middle of one of the world’s largest cities—the airplanes flying almost continually overhead, the teeming streets and dense traffic, and the diversity of attire (ranging from women with nose studs wearing salwaar kameez to bewigged and skirted Orthodox wives) were a constant reminder. But there was also something essentially domestic about Stoke Newington. From the diminutive vicar of the local Anglican Church, who bustled around in his collar to the uniformed school children who swarmed the sidewalks every morning and afternoon to the street names like Green Lanes and Albion Road, life there evoked the village past. After a few chilly hours strolling around the neighborhood, I may have stopped for pannini and cappuccino rather than tea and crumpets, but the feeling was the same.

We were there long enough to have our very own local hangout, discovered on our very first day: the Belle Epoque, a café five minutes from our house where we could purchase an almond croissant, a pain au chocolat, a fresh-squeezed orange juice and a cappuccino for the unheard-of low price of five pounds. The owners of this shop are a French couple, the husband a pastry chef with a fanatical air whose exquisite tarts and marzipan fruit fill the front case. Once he came out while we were eating to show us two large glistening doves covered with flourishes and flowers he had made to decorate a wedding cake. They were about eight inches tall and looked like glass but were constructed entirely out of spun sugar. His dark-haired wife (on whom Matt had something of a crush) was about seven months pregnant at the time and she usually watched Tommy (then 18 months old) with a mixture of curiosity and bemusement. Tommy loved the shop with its beamed ceiling, large windows, and floor-to-ceiling shelves full of Lu cookies, Bonne Maman preserves, and Perroquet lump sugar, the boxes of which he would stack and restack while Matt and I drank our coffee.

I’m dreaming today of that coffee followed by a stroll up to Clissold Park. Two churches, one ancient, one merely old, sit at its edge, their spires silhouetted against the gray sky. Up the path from the playground is a duck pond surrounded by willow trees and a small zoo with pygmy goats. And because in this chilly damp country, a hot beverage is never be more than throwing distance away, there is also a café. That this café is located in a large, box-shaped, and slightly seedy mansion dating from the 1800s only adds to its appeal. Tea, hot chocolate, croissants, and, on Sunday afternoons, roasts with Yorkshire pudding, can all be bought and consumed where the lord of the manor once received his guests.

10.19.09_Clissold_Park02

There are many things to see and do in London of course, and I’m looking forward to taking both my boys there. Since they’re both older now, we’ll probably spend most of our time visiting museums and historical sites closer to the center of the city. But I’ll be sure also to make a jaunt up to the N16 district for a Turkish lunch and hot chocolate in the park – where we’ll bring some bread to feed the ducks. So they can see my own little homey – and dreamy – corner of London.

What is your Monday dream? Please feel free to share a link below, making sure you link directly to your post, not your site’s homepage and that you link back to this post. Questions? See About Monday Dreaming.

Picture 1 courtesy of Ines 93.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pontonoi/ / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Picture 2 courtesy of Gordon McMullan.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gordonmcmullan/ / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Pictures 3 and 4 courtesy of acb.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/acb/ / CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

Filed Under: Dreaming of, England, London, London, We've been here

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Comments

  1. Amy @ The Q Family says

    October 19, 2009 at 10:01 am

    What an experience you guys had to be able to live among the locals. I love that! I’m dreaming along with you because I want to take my kids to Europe sometimes in the next couple years.
    .-= Amy @ The Q Family´s last blog ..Fun Corn Maze at Dusk with Kids at Uncle Shuck’s =-.

  2. Lora says

    October 19, 2009 at 10:37 am

    Its so nice to have a place far away that still feels like home.
    .-= Lora´s last blog ..Monday is for dreaming: Papa Turtle =-.

  3. Taylor says

    October 19, 2009 at 7:42 pm

    This if my first time to your site! Looks lovely! I would love to travel more!
    .-= Taylor´s last blog ..Someday My Prince Will Come =-.

  4. Carolina says

    October 19, 2009 at 7:51 pm

    I love all this coffee/tea and pastry talk. I feel very passionate about this topic.
    It is cool that you get to immerse yourself in a neighborhood and make it your “own” even when you only get to visit it again.

  5. Mara says

    October 20, 2009 at 8:16 pm

    Amy – renting an apartment/house is really the way to go in many European cities – I love finding a great neighborhood and parking it.

    Lora – that’s a great description – it *does* still feel like home.

    Taylor – welcome! Thanks for stopping by.

    Carolina – we are so on the same page. I’m firmly of the belief that if I have a good place to get coffee and pastries I don’t really need much else. Perhaps that’s why Paris is my favorite city in the world?

  6. Victoria says

    October 23, 2009 at 9:22 am

    My brother lives just around the corner from Stokey (I’m in South London, Battersea) and it’s lovely to hear such a glowing write up from someone who lives the other side of the world now. It’s a fabulous post, and sums up what London’s about for me. Your description could be transposed to many different residential areas of London, we all have our own mix of nationalities and cuisines. If you ever need any tips on what to do with your boys in London when you bring them, let me know!
    .-= Victoria ´s last blog ..Bambi =-.

  7. Megan Regnerus says

    October 25, 2009 at 10:33 am

    Mara,
    Just discovered your inspiring site! You are a woman after my own heart. My project this year: to figure out how my family can still travel and see new places this year on a shoestring budget 🙂

  8. Mara says

    October 26, 2009 at 9:36 pm

    Victoria – makes me very happy to know I”m pleasing the locals! We may be in London next summer – although it sounds like you may not be 🙂

    Megan – thanks for stopping by. I hope you’ll find some resources here to help you out. We definitely travel on the cheap. I’m thinking of doing some posts on that very topic soon.

  9. Rachel says

    October 26, 2009 at 11:39 pm

    Oh, Mara, now you’re making me nostalgic for when we lived in London. To think, you and I were actually in the same city at the same time and we didn’t even know it! In Autumn 2003, I had just finished my masters and was embarking on my new job at a financial magazine. And to think, I regularly used Angel Islington station to travel to work. We could have crossed paths on that escalator for all we know…

  10. Adan Freiman says

    June 20, 2011 at 9:10 pm

    Molto bello il tuo blog!

  11. ELP TX says

    January 17, 2022 at 6:17 am

    I’ve been living in USA for 13 years and you just made me remember how beautiful my state actually is, it even made me emotional. So thank you so much!

  12. Meggie USA says

    March 22, 2022 at 6:37 am

    just stumbled onto your blog. super interested in solo traveling. gonna look through your posts from for tips and advice for getting started.

Trackbacks

  1. Mondays are for dreaming: Returning to London | Mother of all Trips says:
    July 26, 2010 at 1:07 am

    […] our previous stay in London when Tommy was a toddler: The Belle Epoque, a small French bakery in Stoke Newington, a neighborhood reachable only by bus or taxi where we spent the month of October in 2003. We knew […]

  2. Family fun at the B&O Train Museum | The Mother of all Trips says:
    December 15, 2011 at 12:04 am

    […] the very first time Tommy encountered a train table at a toy store in Stoke Newington, the London neighborhood where we spent a month in 2003, he was hooked on all things locomotive. […]

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