Digging for clams in Chincoteague's bay

Top 5 things to do in Chincoteague with kids – besides the beach

Chincoteague, Virginia is one of the most beautiful beach towns in the United States. It is located on the eastern edge of Virginia’s Eastern Shore region, a low-lying peninsula in the northern part of the state that is surrounded on one side by the Atlantic Ocean and the other by the Chesapeake Bay.

Chincoteague Island lies off the coast of Virginia’s Eastern Shore mainland and is sheltered from the open ocean by Assateague Island, on which you’ll find the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. The two islands are connected by a bridge that crosses a channel lined with gorgeous salt marshes full of waving grasses. Unspoiled and old-fashioned are the words that immediately come to mind when you drive through the town of Chincoteague to the bridge that crosses over to Assateague.

The far side of Assateague Island is rightly famous for its gorgeous beach, which, thanks to the refuge, is not spoiled by any human development. The beach is so famous in fact that in 2010 Chincoteague was named America’s Number One Beach Town by AOL Travel News. It’s obvious that it would be delightful to spend a summer holiday in the charming low-key town of Chincoteague, with that sandy beach an easy bike ride away.

We visited Chincoteague during the first weekend of October and probably could have swum in the warm ocean water during our first couple of days there, when the air temperature was over 80 degrees. We had a wonderful time on our visit, but do you want to know how much time we spent on the beach? The photo below illustrates the totality of it:

A wet, rainy day on Assateague's beach

Please click on photos to see full-size versions.

The fact is that we arrived in Chincoteague on a glorious, golden Friday afternoon and spent the rest of Friday and all of Saturday exploring it in a variety of ways that did not involve the beach. By the time we made it over there on Sunday, the weather had changed for the worse.

Happily this just means I have a different story to tell about our time on Chincoteague, one that immersed us fully in the town and the landscape. So what are my top picks for things to do in Chincoteague with kids – other than the beach?

This Chincoteague wild pony was just a few feet away from the bus.

Get close to some ponies. If you’ve ever read the classic children’s book Misty of Chincoteague (or seen the movie, which was filmed there) than you know that Assteague Island is famous for its wild ponies, which are rounded up and auctioned off by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department every summer. You can see the ponies simply by biking through the refuge, but it may only be from a distance. A more guaranteed way to get a good view of them is by taking a bus tour with the Chincoteague National History Association. These tours visit parts of the refuge that are not open to the general public including some of the areas where the ponies tend to hang out – right next to the road.

We had a beautiful Chincoteague sunset cruise

Explore the bays and salt marsh in a boat. It would be easy to spend days poking around this fascinating place in a variety of watercraft. During our time in Chincoteague we were lucky enough to circumnavigate the island on a pontoon boat with Daisey’s Dockside Nature Cruises, a trip which afforded us not only a chance to see a good portion of both the Chincoteague and Assateague shorelines, but to sample a Chincoteague salt oyster fresh from the water and get up close and personal with one of the wild ponies on Assateague. We also checked out the marsh grass at eye level in kayaks on a guided trip with SouthEast Expeditions that gave us yet another perspective of this diverse ecosystem. Then it was back over to the other side of the island, where we landed on some of the sand bars and small islands in between Chincoteague and the mainland to collect shells and meet the fiddler crabs on one of Captain Barry’s Back Bay Cruises. Three boat rides in two days may sound like a lot, but I think the boys would have happily spent a third day cruising around if the weather had permitted it.

Hauling in blue crabs was Tommy's favorite part of the trip

Catch your dinner. Thanks to the boys’ new best friend Captain Barry, we learned how to find edible seaweed, grab some mussels, dig for clams, and pull in blue crabs from a trap. The water around Chincoteague is a veritable natural grocery store and my kids loved learning how to take advantage of it – especially since it involved getting unbelievably filthy.

If you can believe it, this is a "small" ice cream (in a homemade waffle cone)

Dive into an ice cream. The Island Creamery serves some of the best ice cream I’ve ever tasted (and regular readers of my blog know those are fightin’ words for me) including “Marsh Mud” – a thick, rich chocolate that (thankfully) resembles is namesake only in color and not in taste or smell.

We loved just hanging out at the refuge, watching the egrets and herons

Watch some birds. You don’t need to be a so-called “bird nerd” or birding expert to enjoy the wildlife in Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. From egrets to herons to osprey to bald eagles to cormorants in the fall the birds are plentiful enough to see with your naked eye. There are numerous spots in the refuge where you can stop and watch as the birds feed and sun themselves. If you want more information about just what you’re looking at, check out the refuge’s main visitor center, where various exhibits will show you what birds live or visit the refuge as part of their annual migrations.

This post merely scratches the surface of the stories from our fall weekend in Chincoteague, so I hope you’ll be back to learn more about this beautiful place.

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Many thanks to the Eastern Shore of Virginia Tourism Commission for sponsoring my family’s trip to Chincoteague, and for paying for the boat and bus tours I mention above. My opinions are of course my own.

Reader Responses

27 fellow travelers had this to say

  1. I just came across your site, love it! I’ve not been to the eastern shor of Virginia, but this post makes it look very appealing. I think I’ll need to add it to my growing bucket list of places to visit!

  2. I was here as a kid and want to bring MY kids now. This summer, I’m thinking of doing a trip from DC to Williamsburg to Chincoteague (missing pony penning, if possible, because I hates crowds!). Do you think we need a whole week in this area? Or would 5 days do it?

    • I think you need a week Jamie. Williamsburg deserves at least three days, and then you’ll want at least three in Chincoteague (there are other Eastern Shore towns that are nice too). We spend just under 3 days in Chincoteague and could easily have done a fourth.

      And yes, avoid the penning, for serious. It’s a zoo. (And I’m not talking about the part with the animals.)

  3. I have wanted to see those ponies since I first read Misty of Chincoteague many, many years ago. I had no idea that there was so much to do on the island – it looks like a lovely spot for a family vacation!

    • Lisa, we’re reading that book now and it’s really so much like what is described there. I think you and your family would really like it – seems right up your alley!

  4. As a local, I think you picked some great choices, the Daiseys are personal friends of ours and I can think of no greater tour guides to welcome you to our island. They love children and give them the time they deserve. The Queen Hive Farm is right off the island and offers horseback riding for every age and ability and I would also highly recommend them.

    • Kelly – thanks so much for the suggestion. I’ve added it to our list for when we return (which we will do for sure). I know my younger son would really like to ride horses there.

  5. Chincoteague is our most favorite place on earth. So glad you enjoyed it. I always vacationed there as a kid and now I take my family. We make it down their a few times a year.Just the other day my oldest daughter told me that she considers Chincoteague “home” too. We have made so many memories there. I must say I was sitting on the edge of my seat waiting to see if you made it to Island Creamery. There.is.no.better.ice.cream. We’ve already make the 4.5 hour drive for some of their ice cream.

    • Gretchen – I agree that Chincoteague is really a special place and one I hope we make it to again soon. And that ice cream really is amazing – on my top ten list. And I’ve eaten a *lot* of ice cream!

  6. We found Chincoteague by accident one year. There was a mix up…we were supposed to be booked at a hotel in Ocean City, and about an hour away from there I called and found out we were booked for Chincoteague…I was like “Where the heck is that?” It was the happiest mistake I’ve ever encountered! We’ve gone back to Chincoteague every year since. (We stopped at Ocean City on our way home from the first trip, kinda to see what we had missed…and we didn’t miss a thing! Chincoteague is sooo much better) Very laid back, most beautiful beach I’ve ever been to. Just can’t say enough good things about Chincoteague!

    • Kelly – that’s a great story. Chincoteague is like a hidden gem. One thing that surprised me is how easy it is to get to, and yet there’s so little development. Thanks for stopping by.

  7. I can’t help but comment. My grandparents built a house in Chincoteague the year I was born. From there I spent countless summers with them there. I remember being able to call my friends on the island without having to even dial the 336 (first 3 digits of local phone numbers). There is a clause in the Oyster Bay community that is due to a family fourth of July party gone array many years ago. We always had so many people for dinner and staying with us at my grandparents house, and we always slept on the porch. The air conditioner was hardly ever used, we always showered outside, and knew when to cover dinner because the mosquito man was coming to spray. After my grand-father passed, my grand-mother eventually met her second husband on the bridge. When she passed, we were able to rent the house my grandparents built (it had long been sold out of the family) for a wonderful celebration of her life. Her ashes are sprinkled on the property and out into the ocean, where my daughter was later baptized during the same ceremony.

    • Heather, I truly love your stories. How amazing about your grandmother! Chincoteague sounds like sacred ground for you and your family – and after a visit there I can understand why.

  8. We’ve vacationed for a week in Chincoteague the past two summers and I think it is the perfect mix of activities and downtime. We felt relaxed and yet there was enough to do to keep our son entertained. It also nowhere approaches the circus of Ocean City. (Well, except for pony penning week, maybe!) We did a boat cruise our first year but I’m intrigued by the Back Bay Cruise as well as the bus tour. My son has ridden at the Chincoteague Pony Center but I’ve thought the one thing that’s missing is a chance for adults to ride. I’ll have to check into the farm one poster mentioned. I’m already longing to go back next summer!

    • Back Bay Cruises are an experience not to be missed Maria – I probably won’t be sharing the full story for a while since Captain Barry won’t be sailing again until spring. But I highly recommend taking one. Thanks for stopping by!

  9. Need a place to stay, Check out Rhythm and Blues. Open year round.

  10. Oh yes, such a special pace for my family too. My children (daughter age 11, sons ages 8 and 5) have a favorite memory from Chincoteague. And that is ….. crabbing! We are from Wisconsin so this was all new to us. We went to the local bait shop, talked to a few locals and wall-A! We had the strings and hooks we needed for crabbing! Add some raw chicken and wait! All 5 of us had a blast! Can’t wait to go back! It’s a nature lovers paradise!

  11. Chincoteague also has a very nice bowling alley located right on the island! Check it out, it’s a lot of fun!!!

  12. I was given a gift for my 50th b day, a girls weekend to Chincoteague, I was estastic…My two daughters, my mom, sister in law and niece,,,it was the greatest we caught the ponies swimming back,,we rented scooters and rode the whole island, we took the Daisey boat tour also (great people), saw dolphins, horses ,eagles, OMG The island is different than any “shore town” , we live in Jersey and have been to them all. It is so relaxing and laid back we enjoy the time we share together learning more and more of the heritage. We made it back this year for the actual penning and we were within arms reach of the horses. The crowds are fine nothing like Ocean City and everyone is so friendly. We joke if we hit the lottery we’re buying something there…

    • I agree that Chincoteague is really different from other beach towns in New Jersey and Delaware and Maryland. It has a character that you don’t see most places. And though I haven’t been there in the summer, it’s obvious that it’s a bit of a hidden gem.

  13. Our family loves CI. My husband grew up on the Island. We’ve been taking our kids there the last 20 plus years. We want to retire there, it is simply beautiful! I figure it is time to invest while the market is good. Hopefully no more renting for vacations, I’m ready to own my own house there. And for those of you who want a boardwalk we usually took one night to go to OC, it is only 45 minutes away. But trust me, there is plenty to do on Chincoteague.

  14. This makes me want to bring my grandson ASAP!

  15. My kids had a blast viewing the pictures of your kids. You should have heard them when the saw the picture of your son with the crab LOL! They love that shot!

  16. Has anyone been to Chinoteague since Hurricane Sandy? There were some pictures of devastation posted on Facebook. I’m thinking of going in April, but am wondering if we’ll still get a great experience for the kids.

  17. I was there when I was a teenager with girl scouts. Now I want to take my kids. I know they will love it as much as I did and still do. Want to see the pony swim.

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